By: David E. MacFawn
This article originally appeared in the Autumn 2019 issue of BEEKeeping Your First Three Years
Moving a hive, whether within the same bee yard or miles away, is something that most beekeepers will encounter at some point in their beekeeping journey. Hobbyists may want to move a hive across the yard, while sideliners may find themselves moving bees to local crops or to spread out their hives to maximize forage. Commercial beekeepers may move bees from crop to crop following the needs of farmers seeking pollination services. Each scenario serves to accomplish a different goal and the methods used vary. Knowledge of the biology and behavior of the honey bee is essential in accomplishing a successful outcome.
Colonies may be moved for forage, if they are a hindrance in their current location, or for pollination. The destination location should always be assessed for forage and water as well as access for the beekeeper. You need to be able to drive your vehicle up to the back of the hives, even in inclement weather. When moving hives for pollination services care should be taken to ensure any additional honey or pollination revenue covers the cost of the move and travel necessary to service the hives at their new location. The greater the distance moved will result in an increase in costs to the beekeeper which must be offset by increased pollination fees or an increase in honey production. Sometimes a satisfactory combination of benefits can be found which benefits both the beekeeper and the landowner such as when permission for a permanent bee yard can be found in an area of good forage.
Figure 1 Moving screen on top of equipment stack for warm weather ventilation
When moving a hive, especially in warm weather, greater than about 60 degrees F, care should be taken so that the bees do not overheat. To provide ventilation, close the entrance with #8 hardware cloth cut to the width of the entrance, folded and pushed into the entrance in place of an entrance reducer. Also use of screened bottom boards or a moving screen placed on top of the equipment stack. A moving screen should not be left on top of the equipment stack after moving since the bees will propolize it. If moving a hive in cold weather, less than about 40 degrees ⋅F, a solid top cover should be used, and care taken that the bees do not get overly chilled. An entrance reducer, can be used to block the hive entrance warm weather ventilation during cold weather conditions.
When moving a hive, the bottom board should be attached to the brood chamber with a high-quality duct tape to prevent the bottom board and brood chamber from slipping apart. In moist climates where hive staples are used to join equipment where the staple is driven will become susceptible to rot. Consideration should also be given to using duct tape to join supers if they are not propolized to each other. The equipment stack should then be secured together with a moving strap and tightened securely. If the equipment is structurally sound, any holes in the equipment can be covered with duct tape when moving the hive. It should be noted if hive staples are used, your equipment will not last as long but the hive staples do work well to secure the boxes.
Figure 2 Securing bottom board to brood chamber with duct tape to move hive
As a simple, movable hive stand, I use three cement blocks with two eight-foot length landscape timbers on top (Figure 6). This height allows easy moving of the hive with a hand truck. Hand trucks with large wheels make the job easier, especially over bumpy terrain. Typically, I place a hive on each end of the hive stand with the middle space being used for placing supers, other equipment, and used when working the hives.
The tongue of a hand truck with large wheels can be inserted under the hive, tilted back, and the hive moved. A trailer with a ramp can then be used to roll the hand truck with the hive up onto a trailer without having to manually lift the hive. If splits are made from an existing hive, often the five frame or less split is light enough to easily lift into the back of a pickup.
Figure 3 Front entrance moving screen: #8 hardware cloth
Depending on the season, two different methods may be used when moving a hive, a short distance within the same bee yard. Loss of field bees is of the utmost concern. In warm weather when the bees are flying, you may move the hive about a foot towards its destination every two or three days, allowing field bees to adjust to the new location. Or you may move the hive at least three miles (or more) after closing the hive entrance, and any holes, at night or early morning before the field bees start flying. Three miles is far enough away such that the field bees will not return to the original location.
Figure 4 Moving screen inserted in front entrance
After about five to six weeks, which is approximately the life span of field bees in the Summer, the hive can then be moved to the desired location in the original bee yard. It should be noted if you move hives in the same yard without moving them three miles for six weeks but say three weeks, foragers will find a home. In cold weather, when the bees are not flying for days, you can move the colony within the same yard.
Figure 5 Hive ready to move in cool weather with a solid cover; note large hand truck wheels
If you are moving a hive from the home yard to an out-yard greater than three miles away, close the hive entrance and any holes at night or early morning prior to the bees flying. Load the hives on a trailer with a hand truck utilizing a dropdown gate. If two people are available, you may be able to load the hives by hand into the back of a pickup. I have gone from ten frame hives to eight frame hives which makes moving easier. Depending on the size of the bed of your truck, short or long bed, you can move eight to ten, 10 frame hives or more in a pickup truck (depending on if you want to stack them). If you stack them, you need to be conscience of the weight that the truck can carry. More eight frame colonies can be moved in the same short or long bed pickup.
Another equipment item for consideration is a trailer for moving hives and spare equipment. If you do not own a trailer, you may want to consider renting one initially until you are sure the out-yard is productive and moving hives is something you want to continue. Only then should you purchase a trailer for moving hives. A trailer with a ramp is recommended if you do not have hives on pallets or a fork lift for loading and unloading. In addition to the hives being strapped and duct taped, place a cargo net over the hive cargo.
(Click on image to enlarge) Assumes 10 frame deep is 90 lbs. and 10 frame mediums are 60 lbs. maximum; 8 frames deep are 72 lbs. and 8 frame mediums are 48 lbs. maximum; Number of hives can transport depends on if have handhold cleats or not, and type of outer cover-telescoping or migratory. Assumes single layer of hives.
If moving a hive in the city, the following should be determined regarding the new site:
⋅Locate away from heavily traveled paths and walkways.
⋅Use a fence, hedge, or other barrier in front of the hive that causes the bees to fly above head level.
⋅Provide a water source closer to your hives than a neighbor’s bird bath or swimming pool.
⋅Meet any city zoning ordinances.
Figure 6 Hive ready to move in warm weather with moving screen on top and entrance screen
Some final considerations whenever moving bee colonies are as follows: When moving colonies, especially in warm weather, you should keep the truck moving with airflow going over the hives, to keep the colonies cool. Bees overheat quickly. Also, the truck engine running and the resulting vibration keeps the bees quiet. Use a moving screen on top of the equipment stack with an entrance screen. Moving the hives in the early morning when it is cool should be considered. A solid top cover should be considered when moving a colony in cold weather. A trailer with a drop-down gate and a hand truck with large wheels allows one person to move a hive. Google Maps, your local agricultural agent, networking with other beekeepers, your state agricultural newsletter, and the state beekeeping entomologist may help in determining suitable locations. Go into a move after careful planning and consideration of the financial impact as well as the planned benefits. Most locations will need two to three years use before deciding if they are meeting expectations.
