By: Becky Johnson
This article originally appeared in the Autumn 2020 issue of BEEKeeping Your First Three Years
There is something to say about a profession where there is no definitive right or wrong. Whether only keeping a few hives or planning to go big with hundreds or thousands- Beekeeping is certainly not for the weak. For many, the first two years is a true test of personal perseverance; As it is filled with confusion, new terms, people and items that you may never before have encountered. It does get easier for those that overcome the obstacles, challenges and new language over time. So how can you earn the title of Beekeeper, and successfully have honey to share at next Summer’s end?
The new language you’re about to learn may be one of your larger handicaps, but only briefly. In the beginning, you will have abounding questions and may find yourself searching the internet, Facebook groups or YouTube. Being wary of the advice given online is strongly advised. Each state has at least one Beekeepers Association, with a myriad of information usually trickled down to local clubs. Finding yours and learning from local beekeepers is essential, as your area’s opportunities and hardships may be extremely diverse from one location to the next. Having a mentor is also fundamental whether by phone or preferably in person they are able to help you navigate your options and make informed decisions about snags you encounter. Phones will auto-correct almost anything you type, and many of your friends and family will not understand your fascination nor conversation about your new hobby. Finding a great person to learn from is as easy as asking a new friend at a local club for their number. One of the largest assets of knowing other beekeepers is their willingness to talk about honey bees and give advice.
The time investment required depends on the quantity of hives you intend on maintaining and the goals that you wish to accomplish within the year. “More than a cat, less than a dog”-this a good adage for the amount of time needed for just a few hives. I keep mentioning the first two years, for good reason. This is where you will begin to mold your personal technique in stewarding your colonies, therefore deciding the time you will need per hive for upcoming seasons. During the Spring, expect to find yourself overwhelmed with opportunities in each and every direction of beekeeping. Spend your time focusing on your objectives, the preceding Winter is the supreme time to calibrate your intentions to goals and motivations. When something doesn’t seem to work, there is always another season to try again.
Honey bees come in several “varieties”. Italian is a popular option in America, as they are great honey producers and known to be more docile than others. “Stock” is another term used to describe the breed of the honey bee family, also known as a colony. Each breed has individual attributes that help it stand out from others, but the genetics are a minute approach to getting started. No matter which stock suits or is available to you, there are 3 castes in every colony. Drones are the only males, who are incapable of stinging and large bodies and eyes are only useful for one thing- inseminating queens they are not related to. They cannot gather resources and must beg for food from the second caste workers. Up to 90% of the bees within a colony are female and known as workers. From the second they emerge, they work until the day they die. From building wax from special glands on their bodies, helping raise the brood (babies) to protecting their home and gathering all the resources needed by the entire colony. The final caste is a single queen, the mother of all honey bees within her hive. She is responsible for laying around 2,000 eggs every day and secreting pheromones to exchange information on her well-being. The entire colony exists wherever there is room for them to raise their brood, gather resources to overwinter and have safety from predators. This could be a tree, a human’s house or a man-made series of boxes.
There are hundreds of options in which style hive to choose from. Many beekeepers refer to the boxes and frames as woodenware. For the time being, I will focus on traditional Langstroth boxes which are commonplace and come in 3 sizes. The largest is called a deep which will be 19 7/8″ in length, 16 ¼” wide and 9 5/8″ in height, and will weigh upwards of 100 pounds when full. A medium will be 3″ shorter at 6 5/8″, which will weigh about 60 pounds when full. The smallest is called a shallow, and will be slightly less than the medium at 5 5/8″ deep, weighing in at about 40 pounds when full. Most hives require at least about 20″ depth for the bees alone, we will discuss honey boxes later. The biggest decision here is made easy when you think rationally-The bigger the box means the more room and less often it needs to be moved around; but keep in mind that also means the weight will be heavier when you do have to lift them. Many beekeepers find it easiest to stick to one size- Mediums, so all their equipment is interchangeable. No matter the size you choose, inside each box are frames- bars that you lift out of the box to check the bees. Foundation is the wall within each frame that bees create their wax comb on. Frames and foundation come in several styles from plastic to natural wax, and about a dozen others in between. Focus on the foundation first, which will decide which frame is required to hold it upright. Keep in mind that these are just boxes to house your bees.
Beekeeping supplies may seem hard to come by as you get started, but you will soon realize the myriad of options available. Some beekeepers are very handy and make their own equipment, as there are plans on many websites for all different styles. If you would rather purchase, asking local beekeepers may teach you there is an equipment store nearby. If not, there are dozens of reputable suppliers that ship. Be suspicious of any company that does not have their own website with reviews from other beekeepers. Although the dimensions of hives are mostly standardized, it is advisable to stay with one manufacturer as there may be slight differences despite similarities. A great notion is to purchase a bee magazine and after reading the articles, look at the advertisements. In most areas, buying or selling used equipment may be against the law. There is a good reason for this to be in place. Honey bees can carry a slew of underlying issues if not managed correctly, some of which can be transferred or affect the woodenware. Always have more equipment than you think you will need. Each year is different, and the bees will teach a very valuable lesson of being prepared if you do not think ahead.
There is a fashion to beekeeping as well. The all white T shirts, jackets or entire suits have their place below a screened veil in the attempt to ward off stings. Some beekeepers are more comfortable in less, while others may require a bit more protection due to allergy or confidence. Don’t let confidence from a sweet Spring colony fool you, as a sting to the eye has the ability to make you blind, a veil is strongly advised. Make sure whatever you wear is a good fit and is not snug against your skin. Try to avoid dark colors and strong smells, such as: cologne, perfume, body odors, etc. Prepare to check your gear often for rips or holes that may allow a determined bee entrance.
When you get stung or your gear needs to be washed, do so. The easiest way is to remove the veil and wash on gentle- but check tags to make sure you’re cleaning according to the manufacturer’s instructions and hang to dry. When a bee gets into your gear, don’t panic. There may be one or two on the inside, but thousands outside. Walk away as calmly as possible to a safe area away from all hives and remove your gear slowly. Remember, If you feel something running down your body it is probably sweat; If it is running up your body, it is probably a bee.
Once you have your hives, where do you put them? Location is very important for the beekeeper as well as their new colonies. Southeast facing hives provide early sunlight, with a nearby water source is essential. You want to make your hives easy to access by vehicle or foot, and keep in mind that they will be heavy if ever needed to be moved. Boxes laden with honey are not for the faint of heart for long distances. Honey bees are masters of temperature control. Using their wings and orchestrated placements, they are able to continually keep the temperature within the hive stable despite outside weather. Honey bees can survive in arctic weather as well as smoldering Summer heat, yet moisture can sign a death warrant on a colony. Keeping them ventilated is imperative throughout the year; especially in Winter when the cool outside air meets the bees warm cluster and can create condensation that rains down on them from the inner cover.
Honey bees have pests just like other livestock or pets. Depending on your area, you may encounter more than others. It is imperative to monitor such intrusions on your colonies. Varroa mites have a longstanding track record of not only infecting numerous viruses into honey bees, but sucking their fat which defers heat consistency in the Winter. There are several options in IPM (Integrated Pest Management), from sticky boards to chemicals. Some treatments may treat more than one type of mite, or for other pests. It is. best to do your research and test your colonies before making any decision on your next steps. The best time to test is another decision you will face. Some beekeepers may advise that they treat twice a year or more without testing prior. This is a dangerous move, as many chemicals cannot withstand certain temps without irrevocable damage or stress to the colony. There are organic methods as well as more natural approaches, however, it is critical to test for effectiveness after your IPM has run its course to ensure its effectiveness.
After your initial Winter of worry and panic has been washed away by Spring blossoms and bees bustling out of their boxes, add supers and increase your inspections. Honey supers can be stacked on top of your brood chamber, or lower boxes, several or one at a time. Determine that your colony has plenty of room for the plethora of new resources at least weekly if needed. As Spring continues, consider making a plan regarding your upcoming honey harvest. Take time to strategize your sales, choosing bottles and labels that help your product stand out. Start taking pre-orders from those that have seen pictures or made comments about buying your honey. Once Summer starts to ascend, your bottles may be on backorder or not be received in time for your harvest, so order early. Ask a fellow beekeeper to borrow their harvesting equipment only if you know the health of their bees. Once you have harvested honey from your colonies, it is hard to ever put your hive tool down.
The only way you truly fail at beekeeping is to refuse to learn and adapt. Continued education will create a solid foundation for your understanding and milestones in beekeeping. Attend conferences, club meetings and social gatherings every chance you get. There is an excess of information available with social media and online resources; The best beekeepers acknowledge even after decades of honing their craft hands on that there is still much to learn. Many beekeepers will tell you they have picked up most of what they have learned from fellowship over lectures. Reading is fundamental, and your ever-growing desire to learn more is only beseeched by the multitude of options. Focus your attention on adapting your strategies based on your personal ideas and goals, but be willing to change your methods and try things that have been vetted reliably by scientific data through trials. Read the multitude of research that has been done and know that there is still much to learn. Trying new methods may flop, but considering them experiments takes the sting out of the failures. Learn from your mistakes and listen to your bees, the ultimate mentors in their stewardship.
Beekeeping in general is a very personal hobby. For most, being in your bee yard is a solo experience. Remember all the lessons learned, books and articles read, and tips and tricks from those you’ve met and you are never truly alone. Each time the lid is cracked and the smell of the hive hits the air, new ideas and questions will entrench you. Each avenue throughout beekeeping is wrought with decisions that are truly intimate between you and your colonies. You will change your mind millions of times regarding your processes and previous thoughts. You will hear conflicting information from those you revere, as well as being the new bee expert among those that do not keep bees. You will track things such as pollen reports, roadside wildflowers and the weather like never before. No matter how you got started in beekeeping- once your honey bees arrive, you are now the steward of thousands of stinging insects you willingly will end up paying a small fortune for, and it will be worth every penny.
